Jason Wagner
Drinking and climbing is a well-known combination, with 43% of climbers choosing a cold beer as a post-climb drink. However, the safety considerations of drinking while climbing, the impact of alcohol on athletic recovery, and the potential for alcohol-use disorder are important factors to consider. While some climbers enjoy a beer or two during casual, single-pitch climbs, others prefer to wait until after the climb to drink, and some avoid alcohol altogether. Climbers should be aware of the potential risks and make informed decisions about whether or not to drink, considering their climbing goals, relationship with alcohol, and social situation.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Beer type | IPA, Budweiser, Coors, PBR, light beer, lager, craft beer, high-alcohol beer, low-alcohol beer, non-alcoholic beer, near beer, British golden ale |
| Beer characteristics | Malt forward, light, refreshing, flavourful, brewed with climbing chalk |
| Beer and climbing | Beer is a post-climb drink, consumed for celebration and socialising, and to soothe shredded hands |
| Beer and performance | Beer impedes recovery, decreases reaction time, decreases peak power, impairs cognitive function, increases injury risk, decreases performance, interferes with glycogen restoration and protein synthesis, increases dehydration, provides extra calories, decreases thermoregulation, decreases blood sugar, decreases testosterone production |
| Safe drinking guidelines | One or two beers, drinking adequate water, consuming a carb- and protein-rich meal, not drinking 48 hours before a competition |
What You'll Learn
Beer impedes recovery
Drinking beer is a common way for climbers to celebrate their achievements. However, it is important to note that while beer may be marketed as a post-workout recovery drink, it can actually impede the recovery process.
Firstly, alcohol negatively affects the body's ability to absorb glycogen from carbohydrates and synthesize protein, which are essential for muscle growth and recovery. This means that consuming alcohol with protein and carbohydrates can impair muscle growth and hinder climbers' performance and recovery.
Secondly, alcohol can lead to dehydration, as it is a diuretic that causes increased urination. Dehydration can further impede the recovery process as it affects the body's fluid and sodium balance, which is crucial for muscle function and performance.
Additionally, alcohol can constrict muscle vessels, reducing glucose absorption and blood flow to the legs. This can result in decreased energy and oxygen supply to the muscles, causing the "heavy legs" effect, which is detrimental to climbers' performance and recovery.
While non-alcoholic beer options are available and may have some health benefits, they are not considered as effective as traditional post-exercise electrolyte sports drinks in aiding recovery.
Therefore, while climbers may enjoy a beer or two after a hard day of climbing, it is important to be mindful that alcohol can impede the recovery process. Consuming an appropriate amount of alcohol for one's body weight, staying hydrated, and consuming a carb- and protein-rich meal can help mitigate the negative effects of alcohol on recovery.
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Drinking and climbing safely
Drinking and climbing is a common combination, but it can be a dangerous one. While some climbers enjoy a beer or two while they climb, it's important to remember that alcohol can affect your coordination, judgment, and reaction time. It's crucial to drink responsibly and ensure that you and your climbing partners are not impaired while climbing. Here are some tips for drinking and climbing safely:
- Know your limits: Understand how alcohol affects you and stay within your limits. Everyone's tolerance is different, so don't try to keep up with others.
- Sip slowly: Avoid chugging beers or taking shots. Sip your drink slowly and give your body time to feel the effects.
- Stay hydrated: Alcohol can dehydrate you, which can be dangerous when climbing. Drink plenty of water between alcoholic drinks.
- Choose lower-alcohol options: Opt for lower-alcohol beers or drinks. The less alcohol you consume, the lower the risk of impairment.
- Climb with trusted partners: Climb only with partners you trust to make good decisions and not push themselves or you beyond your limits.
- Don't climb if you're impaired: If you feel even slightly impaired, don't climb. It's not worth the risk. Save the drinking for after your climb.
- Be honest with your partners: If you're uncomfortable with a partner drinking while climbing, speak up. Good partners will respect your wishes and prioritize your safety.
- Plan ahead: If you know you'll be drinking, choose a climbing route or activity that is less challenging and doesn't require sharp focus or complex decision-making.
- Don't drink and belay: Just as you shouldn't drink and drive, you shouldn't drink and belay. Alcohol can impair your judgment and reaction time, which could be dangerous for your climbing partner.
- Know the signs of impairment: Be aware of the signs of alcohol impairment, such as slurred speech, loss of balance, and slowed reaction time. If you or your partner exhibit any of these signs, stop climbing.
Remember, climbing can be dangerous, and adding alcohol to the mix can increase the risks. Always prioritize your safety and the safety of those around you. It's better to climb sober and ensure that everyone makes it home safely.
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Beer as a social lubricant
Beer and climbing have a long history together. Beer is often seen as a social lubricant, and for many climbers, it is a way to bond with their climbing partners and celebrate their achievements. In fact, according to a survey by Climbing magazine, 43% of their readers chose a cold beer as their post-climb drink. Beer is also considered a good recovery drink by many climbers, who believe that it helps them relax and unwind after a strenuous climb.
However, the effects of alcohol on the body can be detrimental to athletic performance and recovery. Alcohol can decrease reaction time, peak power, cognitive function, and coordination, all of which are crucial for climbing. It can also increase the risk of injury due to impaired motor skills and decreased strength. For this reason, climbers who are serious about their performance often choose not to drink, especially before or during a climb. Some climbers opt for non-alcoholic or low-alcohol beers to enjoy the taste and social aspect of drinking without the negative effects of alcohol.
The social aspect of drinking beer is an important consideration. Many climbers enjoy the camaraderie and sense of community that comes with sharing a beer with their partners after a climb. Alex Honnold, of Free Solo fame, has never consumed alcohol but believes that the emphasis on alcohol as a social lubricant is overblown. He manages to have a good time without drinking and thinks that not drinking likely gives him a slight performance advantage.
Ultimately, the decision to drink beer while climbing or afterwards as a recovery drink is a personal one. Some climbers choose to abstain completely, while others enjoy a beer or two without it affecting their performance. It is important to be mindful of the potential negative effects of alcohol and to drink in moderation, ensuring proper hydration and nutrition to support the body's recovery process.
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Alcohol-use disorder
Drinking and climbing is a topic of debate among the climbing community. While some climbers believe that drinking alcohol before or during a climb is reckless, others argue that it depends on the type of climbing being performed. Some climbers may sip on low-alcohol-content beers throughout the day while on casual routes or top-roping, but avoid drinking before or during more challenging climbs.
Regardless of the type of climbing, it is important to consider the risks associated with drinking alcohol, especially when engaging in physical activities that require coordination, concentration, and quick decision-making. Alcohol can impair judgment, coordination, and reaction time, increasing the risk of accidents and injuries. Therefore, climbers who choose to drink should do so in moderation and ensure they are not putting themselves or their partners in danger.
Excessive alcohol consumption can lead to alcohol use disorder (AUD), a common medical condition characterised by a person's inability to stop drinking despite negative consequences on their health, safety, and personal relationships. AUD can range from mild to severe and can cause physical issues such as alcohol cravings and withdrawal symptoms, as well as psychological issues such as changes in mood and behaviour. People with AUD may spend a lot of time drinking or recovering from hangovers, neglect their obligations, give up important activities, and continue drinking even when it interferes with their physical or mental health.
Treatment for AUD typically involves medication and behavioural therapy, with studies showing that most people are able to reduce their alcohol consumption or stop drinking entirely with treatment. Inpatient medical treatment or residential rehabilitation may be recommended for severe cases. Support groups and therapy can also help individuals with AUD manage their drinking behaviour and address underlying issues that may contribute to their disorder.
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Beer and nutrition
Beer is made from grains, water, hops, and yeast. It is composed of soluble fibre, antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals. These include calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, sodium, zinc, copper, manganese, selenium, fluoride, and silicon. Beer also contains folate, niacin, and potassium. However, whole foods are better sources of these vitamins and minerals, and the calories from alcohol do not adequately provide the nutrition that your body needs.
Beer is 90% water. It has no fat, and most of its calories come from carbohydrates. It supplies minimal protein—about 0.7g for a light beer and 1.6g for a regular or dark beer.
The number of calories and carbohydrates in beer will depend on the brew and the amount consumed. A 12-oz can of ale, lager, porter, premium beer, or stout has more than 12 grams of carbohydrates, which is about four times more than a light beer.
One beer a day is considered good for you. Several beers a day is not. Moderate drinking is defined as no more than two drinks per day or 14 drinks per week for men, and no more than one drink per day or seven drinks per week for women. Drinking more than this increases health risks, including injuries and certain cancers.
Drinking beer in moderation has been linked to heart and bone health, a reduced risk of diabetes, and improved psychological and cognitive well-being. Beer may also improve cholesterol and boost cognitive and psychological health. However, it is important to note that the opposite is true when it comes to recovery from exercise. Alcohol negatively affects the body's ability to absorb glycogen from carbohydrates and synthesize protein, which impedes the recovery process.
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Frequently asked questions
It is never a good idea to drink and climb. Alcohol affects the cerebellum, the part of the brain responsible for balance, spatial sensory perception, problem-solving, and skilled motor tasks, all of which are crucial for climbing.
Alcohol can decrease reaction time, decrease peak power, impair cognitive function, increase injury risk, decrease performance, interfere with glycogen restoration, increase dehydration, interfere with protein synthesis, decrease thermoregulation, decrease blood sugar, and decrease testosterone production.
Some climbing-themed beers include Offwidth, Where Lizards Dare, Snake Pro, Half Dome, Midnight Lightning, and Pirate Pils. There is even a beer brewed with climbing chalk called Limey Unicorn.
The views vary. Some climbers choose not to drink at all before or during climbing, while others enjoy a few beers during casual, single-pitch climbing. Most climbers agree that drinking and belaying is impolite and unsafe.
Although climbers often refer to their post-climbing drink as a "recovery beer," alcohol does not aid in recovery. In fact, it impedes the recovery process by negatively affecting the body's ability to absorb glycogen and synthesize protein. However, drinking a moderate amount of alcohol while consuming adequate water and a carb- and protein-rich meal can minimize the negative effects on recovery.
