Icelandic Beer Traditions: What's Brewing In The North?

Iceland's drinking culture has a long history, dating back to the country's settlement by Norse settlers in the 9th century. However, despite alcohol being commonplace, beer was effectively banned in Iceland for most of the 20th century. Since the ban was lifted in 1989, Icelanders have been making up for lost time, with a flourishing craft beer scene and a variety of unique beverages to sample.

Popular Icelandic beers

Iceland's drinking culture has a long history, dating back to the country's settlement by Norse settlers in the 9th century. These early Icelanders brought with them a knowledge of brewing and distillation techniques, and drinks like ale, mead, and beer feature prominently in Icelandic sagas and poems, such as the Hávamál. Despite this, Iceland implemented a ban on alcohol in 1915, which lasted until 1989 when restrictions on beer were finally lifted.

Today, Iceland has a thriving alcohol industry, with numerous breweries and distilleries creating a wide range of unique and innovative beverages. Here are some of the most popular Icelandic beers:

Kaldi Blonde

Kaldi Blonde is the most popular bottled beer in Iceland. Brewed in the Pilsner tradition and inspired by Czech lager, it has a coppery, golden colour, a smooth texture, and a tantalising bitter taste from roasted malt. With an alcohol content of 5%, it is a great choice for an after-work drink. Kaldi Blonde is produced by the Bruggsmiðjan Kaldi brewery, which was formed in 2006 and now has its own bar in Reykjavik called Kaldi Bar, where you can find Kaldi Blonde on tap along with their other unique labels.

Úlfur

Úlfur, which translates to 'Wolf', is an Indian Pale Ale known for its hoppy taste and notes of grapefruit and pine. It has a vivid golden colour, a frothy head, and a strong, sweet aroma. While some find its bitter aftertaste conflicting, it is still very popular among drinkers. Úlfur is produced by the craft brewery Borg Brugghús, which started in 2010 and now has its own bar. With an alcohol content of 5.9%, Úlfur is best suited for those seeking a cultured drinking experience rather than a night of revelry.

Einstök Ales

The Einstök brewery in Akureyri offers a range of ales that are renowned for their use of Icelandic ingredients. Their four most readily available ales include the White Ale, Arctic Pale Ale, Toasted Porter, and Wee Heavy. The White Ale is a refreshing choice, tinged with orange peel and coriander, while the Arctic Pale Ale uses three different types of hops for a unique flavour. The Toasted Porter is a darker, stronger option with notes of dark chocolate and toffee, and the Wee Heavy is heavily inspired by Scotland. Einstök ales typically have an alcohol content between 5.2% and 6%, making them a great choice for those looking for something a little stronger than your average beer.

Leifur

Leifur is another beer produced by Borg Brugghús, named after Leif Eriksson, one of Iceland's oldest heroes. This beer blends Icelandic nature with a Belgian Saison style, resulting in a bitter ale with notes of Arctic Thyme and heather. While it may be an acquired taste for some, it is a favourite among those seeking a true Icelandic flavour.

Surtur Nr. 47

Surtur Nr. 47 is an Imperial Stout produced by Borg Brugghús, rounding out their impressive showing on this list. This stout stands out for its scent and flavour, which feature strong notes of freshly brewed coffee, burned sugar, and chocolate. The coffee used in its production is roasted by Iceland's most popular cafe, Te & Kaffi. With an alcohol content of 10%, Surtur Nr. 47 packs a punch and should be enjoyed responsibly.

Gædingur Stout

Gædingur Stout is a fusion of flavours, including caramel, chocolate, coffee, and earthy tones. It is produced by the microbrewery Gædingur and can be found bottled in government-run liquor stores called Vinbuðin, or at special bars that focus on craft beer, such as Microbar. Gædingur also offers rotating taps of their other flavours at these bars.

Lava Beer

Lava Beer is produced by the Ölvisholt Brugghús brewery in Selfoss and is one of the most internationally renowned Icelandic beers. It is a Russian Imperial Stout with notes of dark chocolate, roasted malt, and smoke, and has an alcohol content of 9.6%. Lava Beer has won awards for its exceptional quality, including the US Open Beer Championship in 2012 for the best imperial smoked beer.

Beer history in Iceland

Beer in Iceland likely dates back to the island's settlement by Norsemen. In old sagas and poems, such as the Hávamál, there are mentions of ale drinking. However, due to the cold climate, it was hard for early Icelanders to grow barley locally, so beer production was difficult.

In the early 20th century, Icelandic attitudes towards alcohol shifted. A temperance movement, similar to those in other countries, pushed for a ban on moral grounds. As the Icelandic independence movement began to form, beer was associated with Denmark and was therefore considered "not the patriotic drink of choice". In a 1908 referendum, 60.1% of voters approved a complete ban on alcohol, which came into effect on 1 January 1915.

The ban on wine was lifted in 1921 or 1922 in response to a trade dispute with Spain and Portugal, who threatened to stop importing Iceland's salt cod if they couldn't import wines from these countries. In 1933, 57.7% of voters approved lifting the ban on alcohol, and spirits were legalised in 1935. However, beer was still prohibited from containing more than 2.25% alcohol by volume. Some full-strength beer was smuggled into the country, and Icelanders also worked around the restriction by adding strong alcohol, such as Brennivin, to their beers—a concoction described by historian Unnar Ingvarsson as tasting "interesting and totally disgusting".

In 1979, an Icelandic businessman, Davíð Scheving Thorsteinsson, attempted to bring beer into the country after a business trip. His beer was confiscated, but he refused to pay the fine, arguing that he should have the same right to purchase duty-free beer as airline personnel and foreign tourists. Although he lost his case, the resulting press and attention led to a new law that permitted Icelanders to bring 6 litres (12.2 pints) of foreign beer into the country.

In May 1988, the Althing passed legislation legalising beer above 2.25% ABV, and the restrictions were lifted on 1 March 1989. This day, celebrated as Beer Day, marked the end of a 74-year ban on beer. After the prohibition, Icelandic drinking habits shifted away from hard alcohol to beer and wine. Per capita liquor sales decreased by nearly half between 1989 and 2007, while per capita beer sales more than doubled.

In recent years, the rise of microbreweries and craft beers has led to a newfound passion for beer among Icelanders. Craft pubs are now commonplace, and local breweries have begun to emerge and develop their own beers.

Beer drinking in Iceland today

Beer drinking in Iceland has been booming in recent years, but the country's beer history goes back to its early settlers, who arrived from cultures where drinking beer was commonplace. In the present day, about 70% of all beers sold in Iceland are Icelandic beers.

Beer was effectively banned in Iceland for most of the 20th century, only becoming legal again in 1989. In the years since, Iceland's consumption of beer has increased markedly, and new breweries have emerged to meet demand.

The two largest domestic brewers in Iceland are Egill Skallagrímsson Brewery and Víking, but there are also many small craft brewers that have appeared in the last decade or so. These microbreweries produce a wide variety of beer styles and have won international awards for their brews.

Icelanders' favourite beers include Úlfur, an Indian Pale Ale with a hoppy taste and notes of grapefruit and pine; Kaldi Blonde, a coppery, golden-coloured Pilsner-style beer with a bitter taste from roasted malt; and Einstök ales, which come in a variety of styles, including a White Ale, an Arctic Pale Ale, a Toasted Porter, and a Wee Heavy.

Brennivín, a clear and unsweetened Icelandic schnapps, is considered the national drink of Iceland. It is typically served cold as a shot, alongside a beer, or as a base for cocktails.

Icelandic breweries

Iceland's brewing industry has experienced a boom in recent years, with a growing number of independent breweries popping up across the country. This is a notable turnaround, given that beer was banned in Iceland for most of the 20th century.

The country's early settlers, dating back to around 871, were Vikings travelling from Norway, and for them, drinking beer and mead was commonplace. However, the ingredients and conditions for brewing beer in Iceland were not ideal, and the beer was often of poor quality.

During the early 20th century, social movements (Temperance movements) were gaining traction in Iceland, and these, combined with the country's independence movement, led to a shift in attitudes towards beer and alcohol. Many people began to associate beer with Denmark, considering it "unpatriotic" to drink it. This led to a complete ban on alcohol, which began on 1 January 1915, although wine was made legal again in 1922, and the ban on strong liquor and spirits was lifted in 1935. Beer, however, remained illegal, with various social groups arguing against its legalisation.

During World War II, an Icelandic brewery called Ölgerðin received special permission to brew beer for the British Navy, and this beer was called Polar Ale. In 1950, when US troops arrived in Iceland, the name was changed to Polar Beer, and this drink is still available in Iceland today.

In 1983, the first "beer bar" opened in Reykjavik, but as the prohibition was still in place, it served a non-alcoholic beer mixed with a shot of vodka. This "beer look-a-like" became so popular that it was banned just two years later. Finally, on 1 March 1989, the ban on beer was lifted, and Icelanders celebrated by buying over 320,000 cans of beer—despite there being only 260,000 people in the country at the time!

Today, Iceland's drinking culture has shifted away from hard alcohol towards beer and wine. Per capita liquor sales decreased by nearly half between 1989 and 2007, while per capita beer sales more than doubled. As of 2014, 62% of the alcohol consumed by Icelanders was beer.

The two largest domestic brewers in Iceland are Egill Skallagrímsson Brewery and Víking, but there are also many smaller craft brewers producing a wide variety of styles. These include:

• Ölverk in Hveragerði, which uses geothermal power for beer production and also serves stone-baked pizzas.
• Ölvisholt in the Selfoss area, a former dairy farm that has been producing top-quality ales for the past decade.
• Brothers Brewery in Vestmannaeyjar, which is located in the Westman Islands, a popular destination for nature, volcanic landscapes, and seafood.
• Smiðjan Brugghús in Vík í Mýrdal, a burger pub with a smart selection of local craft beers.
• Beljandi in Breiðdalsvík, a brewery located in an old slaughterhouse.
• Askur Taproom in Egilsstaðir, which produces spiced herbed beer, Japanese rice lager, and Kölsch, a hybrid of ale and beer.
• Bruggsmiðjan Kaldi in Árskógssandur, a major competitor in the mass market, challenging mainstream beers such as Viking and Gull.
• Steðji Brugghús in Borgarfjörður, which offers unique specialities such as beer made from whales' testicles, as well as more conventional flavours like strawberry beer.

Iceland's prohibition

In the early 20th century, social movements (temperance movements) were gaining traction across the Western world, and Iceland was no exception. In 1908, Iceland held a referendum on a proposal to outlaw all alcohol, with around 60% voting in favour. The ban would come into effect on 1 January 1915. This was also influenced by the Icelandic independence movement, which associated beer with Denmark, making it "not the patriotic drink of choice".

In 1921, the ban was partially lifted when Spain refused to buy Iceland's main export, fish, unless Iceland bought Spanish wines. In 1935, the ban on spirits was lifted, but beer remained illegal. One reason for this was the belief that beer would tempt young people and workers into heavy drinking. Another argument was that beer was cheap and accessible, and so would be more likely to lead to drinking among minors.

Despite the ban, Icelanders still found ways to access beer. Some made their own "beer substitutes", mixing non-alcoholic beer with a shot of Icelandic schnapps called Brennivin. Others smuggled beer into the country or produced it themselves through home brewing.

In 1988, Iceland's parliament voted to legalise beer, and on 1 March 1989, Icelanders were finally allowed to buy beer in the country. This day is now celebrated as Beer Day in Iceland, with some choosing to mark the occasion with a bar crawl.

Frequently asked questions